Moccasin made using porcupine quills from an unknown maker in the Crow Tribe
Crow Moccasin
Maker
Unknown artist from the Crow Tribe
Origin
Crow, United States
Date
1900
Medium
skin, porcupine quill, beadwork

Crow Moccasin

What is it?

Originally worn on the feet, these moccasins, were created by an unknown Crow artist using hide, porcupine quills, and beadwork. This pair was made in 1900 and came to Denver Art Museum in 1985.

What inspired it?

Moccasin History & Use: Originally crafted out of practical necessity to protect the feet from harsh terrains and climates, this early footwear was created from the materials readily available, mainly animal hide and natural decoration. Although "moccasin" has come to be a widely used term for the form, regardless of tribe or creator, the term originated from the Algonquian Tribe’s language and each tribe has their own word, in their own language, for them. Today, moccasins are a big part of a dancer’s regalia for Powwow.

Design: Different styles and designs of everyday moccasins are inspired by, and created in relation to, the environment(s) that a particular tribe experiences. For example, tribes from the Woodland areas, including the North Eastern part of the US and into Canada (like the Ojibwa tribe), can be identified by their soft-soled moccasins and their use of floral elements located on the top, or vamp, and/or cuffs of the moccasin. In contrast, Plains tribes' (like Crow and Sioux) moccasins are known to have the top, or vamp (usually excluding cuffs), entirely covered in glass beads or porcupine quills, and made with hard soles that withstand rough terrain. This hard-sole style, however, only dates back to the mid-nineteenth century.

How is it made?

Moccasin Assembly: Moccasins are commonly made using hides of different animals; the larger the animal, the thicker and more sturdy the hide. In order to create a polished look, the moccasin is sewn inside out, historically using sinew (pronounced sin-yoo; tendon or ligament) as thread. The sinew is threaded through holes punched by an awl (pronounced all, a pointed tool meant to create holes in leather). The pattern for the moccasin varies according to tribe, region, and stylistic preference. Sometimes, the creator uses recycled hide from other items in the construction of the moccasins. For example, some soles are cut from old painted parfleches made from strong and durable hide.

Quillwork is achieved by wrapping the softened quill around the stitched thread – these designs, due to the physical limitation of the quill, are primarily geometric.

What to Look For

Detail of moccasin made with porcupine quills from an unknown maker in the Crow Tribe
Variety of leathers

Leather can vary greatly in terms of softness and firmness depending on the thickness of the hide or type of animal. Geography and climate influence what thickness of leather is appropriate to use and also informs what type of animal hide would be most useful to achieve a certain thickness. In colder climates, the fur of the animal may be included in the construction of the moccasins with the intention of keeping the feet warm for travel.

Detail of moccasin made with porcupine quills from an unknown maker in the Crow Tribe
Beadwork

Glass beads became available to American Indian tribes through European production and trade. Different techniques of beadwork help to achieve different visual effects.

Detail of moccasin made with porcupine quills from an unknown maker in the Crow Tribe
Quillwork

The porcupine quills are typically flattened by pulling them through the teeth, or by using a special flattening tool.

Moccasin made using porcupine quills from an unknown maker in the Crow Tribe
Use of color

Through the use of brightly-colored beads, moccasins are able to communicate particular identities. Each tribe often has their own meanings and identity associated with each color.

Additional Reading